Agumbe: The Land of Monsoon & Mysteries

The Western Ghats is registered as a ‘UNESCO World Heritage Site’ for its rich biodiversity and ecological importance. Agumbe lies at the heart of it. 

Nestled in these pristine rainforests of the central Western Ghats is the ‘Kalinga Centre for Rainforest Ecology (KCRE)’, a field station actively involved in research and conservation efforts of various endemic species like the ‘Malabar Pit Viper’, and primarily, the recently described King Cobra species – Ophiophagus kaalinga. This haven for researchers, film-makers and wildlife enthusiasts is the brainchild of Dr. P. Gowri Shankar. Dr. Gowri is a wildlife biologist who has been studying King Cobras for around 2 decades. He was instrumental in initiating the pioneering radio telemetry study on king cobras and has dedicated his entire life to study and protect these magnificent creatures. He also has more than 10 scientific papers on other herpetological topics and book reviews to his credit. 

Visiting KCRE in July 2023 after a span of almost 12 years brought back some vivid memories from my childhood. As a kid, I visited here often as part of our expeditions through ‘Woody adventures’ – a Bangalore-based group that organised nature camp trips for children. And it would be fair to say that a lot of my passion and curiosity about the natural world was born in this very place during those days.

Agumbe. There is just something about this place that needs to be experienced to understand. A place that is almost synonymous with monsoon. Where the burble of flowing streams is subdued by the constant croaking of frogs. Where snakes are stumbled upon by the step, and such creatures exist that are unknown to man. A place that the world’s largest venomous snake calls home, and where rainforests are dense enough to harbour darkness in the middle of the day. Here, cellular network is a myth.